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Hello,
I have a 1994 Geo Metro, 1.0L 3-cylinder engine, automatic transmission, with throttle body fuel injection. The car was running fine until on the way home from work it started to lose power. I was able to get it home only by keeping the accelerator to the floor. These are my current symptoms: 1. Starts hard. 2. After starting it has a rough idle. 3. If you try to "blip" the accelerator either during idle or while driving, it stalls. 4. It tries to cut out when you shift into gear. 5. I can hear light backfiring when letting off from full throttle. 6. It stalls when accelerating from a stop, unless I power-brake it to get the rpm up. It runs ok at mid throttle range but will not go above 55mph on a flat, straight stretch of road at full throttle. Low end throttle it stalls, high end throttle lack of power. I've verified the timing setting, replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter with no success. No engine codes stored. Any ideas? Thanks
I haven't worked on one of these for a while but... Do a compression test, had one that had the automatic lash adjusters for the valves stick and hold some of the valves slightly open. Virtualy no compression on two cylinders but would just barely start and ran better the higher the revs got. Just do a compression test, I dont know the spec, put the cylinder will run if its got over a hundred psi by rule of thumb. Plugged exshaust fits your symptoms pretty good. Cant rember how the catilist is mounted but basicly cut or undo the the pipe to the cat and see if it runs better. You can do this test with a pressure guage, but why spend the money, you will be able to tell imediately if this is the problem. An initial test i do is to have the car drive away from you at full throttle, if you can hear the normal rap or pulse of the engine its probably not plugged. If it sounds like a snake hissing away its probably plugged. The exception is late 70's fords they all sounded plugged. The other things are cap and rotor (very likely but they should have been changed with the wires) if this equiped with a distributor, and pattern comming from the injector. If you have a sensitive enough timing light it will sense the injector pulse and show you the pattern. My snap-on will. Anything other than a nice even cone of sprayed fuel is bad. Good Luck
I have a 92 metro..compression for a new motor is 205psi per cylinder..anything under 160 is rebuild time..new exhaust valves,stainless steel is best, compression is tested on a hot motor, throttle wide open and all plugs out..the new head gasket will have the ouil return holes way too small..you can see this when you place the gasket on the block..upper right and left corners..enlarge them other wise oil doesn't draon back fast enough and you will have a smokescreen behind you..it;s a known problem..but noone has corrected the gasket at any of the manufactirers
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