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I have had to replace two engines in my 1996 Pace Arrow Vision due to what the mechanics call a detonation problem. They can't tell me what is causing this problem.Anyone out there wityh any ideas or similar problem????
On a 1987 454 in a 32' motorhome, it now has a rochester quadrajet, not acting right, need to know what aftermarket carb would do the trick and should i change out intake manifold. thanks
I have a 1956 chevy sedan that has a 454 chevy engine in it. How can I find out what year it was built. The person I bought the car from didn't know the year. I want to do some work on the engine like replace the carburator and manifold, adjust the lifters, etc. Thanks
I have a 1980 SouthWind motorhome, with a 454 Chevy engine, and with ONLY 59,000 miles on it. Average that out, 2,100 miles a year...
My problem is the starter, I think might be a little small, seeing that I have 'cooked' 2 so far. The second one I used wasn't any bigger then the one in my 1993 GMC 305. Prehaps I need a reducer type starter??? Mine bolts to the bolt and not the bell housing.
Any IDEAS?? Maybe a 'Mean Green'
I paid a friend to take the heads off of my pace arrow that has a 454 engine. now I am putting it back togeather and everthing pretty good but don't know where all the vacumm hoses hook up. When I start it up a lot of gases come out of the top of the carb. Any comments please.
I was reading my manual and it stated that the dip stick on the 454 engine (it's on motorhome beachcraft 1987 model) was in error and chevy recommended to get the newer one. We were on a trip from New Orleans to Saratoga, New York. ON the return trip I notice a clacking and checked my oil and the dipstick just barely read oil in motor. When I pulled in to a campground that evening I pulled out my manual and read about the dipstick issue. The next morning I had my oil changed so that I could be sure I had 7 qts. in engine. At the time the guy that changed my oil said that I should be putting in 8 qts. since the 454 is a high performance engine. Would like to know if anyone has had problem with the dipstick and was the guy right about the amount of oil?
Check the anvance weights in the distr sometimes they freeze up from sitting and will not retard the timing when pulling a load. Causes detonation (ping). That could melt a piston.
The weight in dist. advance the timing by g.force, related to RPM, not retarded. + They dont rust, they are on plastic bushing, the spring may broke, and they advance too soon & create pre-ingnition.
wrench
Two motors in the bin, wow i would be crying buckets, you need to get a profesional on to your motor and set it up right for you, you can hear if a motor is pinking because of pre-ingnition,to lose two motors is terrible, get some local hands on help Jim it sounds as though you could do with someone showing you the way to look after set up and maintain an engine, i dont mean to sound big headed in case its coming across that way, good luck Jim.
Will it hurt anything if I take the chassis battery out when I store it for the winter. I already take the coach battery out but I don't want to risk damage to any of the chassis electrical with no battery over the winter.
Have 454 FI cheverolet engine in 1994 fleetwood motor home.Will not start untill youu spray starting fluid into the injectors.Same problem with engine hot or cold.
Engine runs hot. Believe aux electric fans should come on but don't. What controls fans and where is it? Have considered manual switch but prefer it to work properly.
Having a problem with the accelleration when it gets hot and it will miss when when it is hot and will not miss when it is cold. I have installed new wires and spark plugs. Still misses.
454 Chevy in 1992 Pace Arrow 37J. 63K miles. Engine appears to have blown head gasket (or warped head). Engine missing badly, oil blowby too. Mechanic recommending engine replacement. How is engine removed - from below or front?
Have 93 pace arrow and it not fuel is not get to the efi sao cant get it run no one seams to know what to do its is going to the carb but not to the engine it will turn over just need to know if you can give info thanks
My 454 chevy big block seems to be running out gas at about 65 miles an hour but runs okay be low that speed what might be the prolem it is in a 1994 alergro motor home 31 ft. are their any fuel fillters on the motor i don't have any maunals
This is been going on for several years now. you will be driving along after maybe any where from 150 to 400 mi. and it will start loosing power. you can pull off the road for around 30 min. and it will run fine for another 35 40 mi. and it starts all over again. stop for the night and you will be able to drive another 150 to 400 mi. again and then it starts all over again. i've replaced fuel pump twice, replaced 4 oxy. sensors replace air flow sensor replaced fuel filter (in line) they have worked on the electrical end to the tune of many $$$
all the above no help thougt the catyletic converters were pluged I took them out no help I need help I have just installed a new computer we haven't driven it since i've installed it maybe it willsolve the problem I can only hope I'm running out of things to replace Maybe you can help PLEASE
THANKS FRANK
No need for a new dipstick. The motor in your home uses 6, 7, or 8 quarts depending on the pan, filter size and oil cooler if installed. Your manufacturer or manual should list correct volume but be carefull if an aftermarket oil cooler has been added as this will increase amount needed. Here's your procedureChange oil and fill with correct amount. If an aftermarket cooler is installed or if you want to install one (You should), temporarily disconect at engine & plug. With proper engine volume installed, run to temp and shut down then waite 15 min. for drain drown. Remove dipstic & note level. If different than original markings, scrip new full level on both sides of stick with a metal point or an engraving tool, the measure the distance of origanal 1qt low mark as related to the original full mark. Use this measurement to then scribe the new 1qt low mark and put striations or xs between the 2 new marks. To avoid confusion you can lightly sand the old marks below the new 1qt low mark. Note: be carefull note to scribe to deep as you may weeken the stick strength. This will always be your full & add marks even if a cooler is present or added later, simply attach or re-attach the cooler and fill to the new marks. Then, with cooler in place, you can determine the correct total fill volume for engine and cooler when you change oil the next time. Also, while a cooler should be placed in a protected area with good air flow, it will only drain when the oil is changed if the outlet line is higher than the engine inlet and even then requires a more patient drain time & may never drian completely without the pump running. While some say disconnect spark & turn engine to empty the cooler when changing oil, this still turns engine with low oil and may just pump oil to the top of the engine. I recommend this procedure only at the start of a season & allow all oill to drain down, then change oil & filter a minimum of ever 3,000 miles or 90 days without exception. Synthetics may be an advantage but frequent changes are your best protection.
Just was left a 1980 45ft pase arrow motor home, with the 460 dodge in it, the ? I have is wher can I get a electrical schematice, and I mean from the batterys all the way back to the rear lights,+ gen,+ holding tanks,+ runing lights, someone got coper happy on it,?
Need electrical schematic 1987 pace arrow 5.7 carberated vechicle gauges do not work battery drains changed alternator some how not going to the battery
Go to a Chev garage and ask for service manual for a P30 truck. It will have the vacuum diagram in it. You may have to butter up the Service Manager to get to look at the book.
Maybe they will make a copy of the diagram for you. Make sure to ask for the 454 engi9ne diagram.
I had the same problem with my '93 Itasca 454. It seemed to be starving for fuel and only late in the day in Florida when it was warm outside. It did not happen after we left Fl and headed for home [cooler weather] When I got home I flushed the tank and put in a new fuel pump [it was suggested by a chevy mechanic that I had a rusty gas tank and the sock on the fuel pump was plugging up with rust that was falling away after it was shut off for awhile] didn't have a chance to test it. Then it was suggested that the control module in the distributor was going bad. This was a common problem with these engines after 40-50K miles. This made a lot more sense to me being that it only happened when the weather was hot [the engine was not overheating] I am back in Fl now and parked so I have not been able to test it on a hot day. It is a $30 part and not that hard to change so it may be worth a try.
Good Luck
Dan
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