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Have a Dometic RM 2607 - Check light keeps going on and gas selenoid cuts off gas.
When I check the voltage at the negative side of the gas selenoid I get.002V to a good ground (7 milliamps
current flow)
When I jumper 12 volts to the gas selenoid the fridge will run continuously just fine, only it will
not stop running unless I take the 12 volt jumper source off the selenoid.
Can anyone give me an idea of just what the problem could be? Thanks - Paul
Hello,
I will like to purchase your (Dometic RM2607 Check Light) and i will want you to get back to me with the last price and the pics, for the shipping i will be responsible for it.
Thanks
Check light comes on when traveling (gas) only.I first thought it was the wind/bouncing. Could this be a loose connection? If so which one? I had a new board installed sveral years ago.
Dometic would not accept the fact that the board was bad until I asked them to check it. They gave me this ground problem runaround.
Chasing the same problem. i have already replaced the lower control pcb & installed the replacement harness 5 years ago. only to have the problem again. dometic has a service bulletin coverig this problem: r70/4b march, 1995. maybe updated by now. phone: 800-544-4881.
My Rm2607 does the same thing. I just called Dometic and they said they could not send me the service bulletin. They said that I would have to get it from an authorized Dometic Dealer.
Eyebrow Check. When I go through the check process On/off button in the Off position, held Temp Selector button down.
With Temp Selector Button held down, pushed the On/Off button to on position.
Continued holding the Temp Selector down for another 3 seconds.
The eyebrow indicated that diagnostic mode has begun lighting each of the mode indicators lights and temperature indicator lights one at a time in sequence. At that point it did not light the Check light and go to the first temp light. It went to AC light.
Do you think I have a problem with my circuit board. ??? Thank you for your assistance.
I am having the same problem, and even took it to the largest RV dealer in the state of Indiana and after 4 techs(1 master tech. on Dometic) looked at and called the manufacturer the next day they still couldn't fix my frig. HELP!!!
Just talk to a tech. at Dometic, he says that this model had issues with bad grounds and that would be the first thing to check. 2nd he said that there is a new wiring harness (bigger wires)for this model. You can tell if you have the new harness by looking for 1 loose blue wire in the back. I asked about any service bulletins and said that the one mentioned above had nothing to do with propane valve.
I just bought a camper with this fridge in it, and I'm sorry to say it has the same problem. I have noticed that the problem is related to heat build up in either the gas valve or the circuit board (my guess is the circuit board). When I take all the covers off the back of the fridge to get at the flame, the check light will only come on 1-2 times a day. The fridge still stays cold with the covers off. I'm tiring to get a perment solution from dometic, when I do I will post.
Just put in a new aftermarket board. Very easy to change, the new board has an additional ground wire and puts both leads to the thermistor on the board. They say that this will reduce ground bouce. The fridge has been working without problem for the last 2+ days
Sorry to hear that you are having the same problem. What I did to fix mine was just to run a jumper wire to the gas valve. It keeps the valve open and I don't have to worry about the control board. I know that having the valve open all the time could raise some safety concerns but since the valve is on the outside of the fridge and the exterior door is vented with slots, I haven't worried about it.
How much is dometic charging for the board? Let me know what you do and how much it costs you.
Sorry to hear that you are having the same problem. What I did to fix mine was just to run a jumper wire to the gas valve. It keeps the valve open and I don't have to worry about the control board. I know that having the valve open all the time could raise some safety concerns but since the valve is on the outside of the fridge and the exterior door is vented with slots, I haven't worried about it.
How much is dometic charging for the board? Let me know what you do and how much it costs you.
Sorry to hear that you are having the same problem. What I did to fix mine was just to run a jumper wire to the gas valve. It keeps the valve open and I don't have to worry about the control board. I know that having the valve open all the time could raise some safety concerns but since the valve is on the outside of the fridge and the exterior door is vented with slots, I haven't worried about it.
How much is dometic charging for the board? Let me know what you do and how much it costs you.
The cost of a new board is $210. I still haven't tested the ground connection, so I haven't bought the new board yet. How do you control the temperature in the fridge if the flame is on all the time?
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