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I have a 1974 road runner that i bought with no engine or transmission. It came stock with a 318 so i found a 318 with trans out of a 71 Fury. The motor was an electronic ignition engine. I now have the 71 318 in my 74 road runner. The distributor that came on the motor is for electronic ignition. The ballast resistor that is on my road runner is a dual type. I have 2 types of ECU that i have tried to switch to get it running but i am not sure which one is supposed to go on it or which one will make it run with the 71 engine. My problem is that the motor starts, but when i let off the key from start it cuts cold off. I changed ballast resistors and the problem still persists. What would be my problem? Would a bad fusible link do anything, or a bad ignition switch or a bad ECU or bad relay switch. i have switched relay switches and ballast resistors. I am not sure what else to look for. The motor ran good when i took it out the car! If you could help me out i woudl appreciate it. thanks!
To check system: use a 12 volt test light, or a volt meter. turn key to "run", go to coil + terminal, should be 10-11 volts or bright light there. If not, go to ballast resister,check both sides, one end should show full battery voltage/bright light, both sides, other end should show 10-11 volts/ dimmer light one side, 4-6 volts/very dim light other side. Do this and come back with what you find.
I have just swapped the engine in my ford adventurer camper for an engine out of a transit pickup.the new engine had an electronic ignition distributor in it.i try to fit the old distributor but it wont fit.how can i wire up the distributor to get the engine to run.will i need any other parts if so what?
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