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I purchased the RV recently, took it for a ride before buying it, brakes were good, he did the cert. changed the front pads, I took the RV, drove it 2000 miles, no power brakes, but good steering. Is there anything that could be out of adjustment? Fluid is at cold mark when cold. Pressed the brake pedal twice with motor off, then with slight pressure on pedal, started the motor, and pedal pushed back at me. I understand this is the test for the accumulator. Can you help me?
Stan,
Im having the same problem! The passenger side on my just purchased 93 Winnebago Adventurer has locked up. I drove it a few miles before finding that a problem existed. The wheel got hot but not to boiling temp. I took the wheel off and loosened the bleeder screw and there was pressure built up. It released but locks up every time I apply the brakes. I thought of replacing the caliper but hearing your dilemma I think I'll wait until someone knows just whats wrong. Anyone?
I understand that the P-30 brake system is hydraulically assisted by the power steering pump, but this is a closed system separate from the brakes. You might want to tried and "bleed" the power steering system by turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, and then check the power steering fluid. If it goes down, fill the reservoir up, and do it again until the fill-mark is reached. This should take the air out of the power steering system. Also, you might want to have your brake system flushed (might have very old brake fluid), or bled to get all the air out of the system. This is a simple process, but if you're not familiar with this, write me for details.
If you still need more info on your hard brake pedal, here's a link with some good info, in particular, to hydroboost brake systems (down towards bottom of web page re Hard Pedal's a Problem too).
Thanks Robert, I was beginning to think everyone forgot me. I did bleed the brakes, seemed solid, no bubbles, cleaned the caliper sliders, brakes are much better. Will check that web site. Thanks
Another problem I have found with MANY motorhomes on GM chassis is the flexible line from the chassis to the caliper goes through a metal bracket attached to the upper control arm. This bracket rusts and swells so much that the brake fluid has a difficult time passing through. Also they release very slowly or sometimes even worse they will lock up.
Joe,
I have a lot of squeak when I apply my brakes and then even more when I take my foot OFF for about the next 5-10 seconds, as though the brakes have not released fully. Maybe this is my problem that you mentioned. I will have to take a look at that line.
I have a 92 Pace Arrow 37 J chevy 454 on a P30 chassi.
I had the passengers side front brake sieze up on me, the hub got red hot, I replaced the Caliper/pads/hub.
next trip the same wheel started to get hot again, I released the pressure in the system by letting out what appeared to be steam or boiling brake fluid, from the bleed nipple.
I wacked the caliper slide about (as you do when you are in wallmarts car park)and used some wd to make sure it was free, and then continued my journey with no more heating problems.
But I have a very loud brake pad noise when the braking.
Anyone experienced this or any ideas?
Also, the foot operated parking brake does not work, it seems like the cable has failed between the foot pedle and the transmission brake drum, inside the brake drum.
Any tips on changeing this cable?
By theb way we are English (motorhome is in Fla)so if you have any problems with British spares maybe I can help.
email Mac
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