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Okay, earlier suggestion to check the contacts inside the converter housing didn't work. They're fine and clean. Problem My 88' Southwind with Chevy chassis, has a converter and charger in one under the fridge. It has a "Charging Sentinel" LED bulb that should be on if charging or if the batteries are topped off. If there is no light, the unit says check owners manual. The light is totally off and I don't have the manual. Looking at the circuit board on the 12V side as well as all wires and connections reveals nothing. Same on the 110 side of the box. Breakers and fuses all good. I have dead batteries and the charger won't charge. Anybody else go through this?? I've already put two hours into hunting the problem, and am now looking under the hood at the isolater relay and the central electrical panel mounted on the firewall. The Aux battery disconnect works if I'm hooked up to shore power, but not if just on the dead batteries. The Main battery disconnect switch produces no sound or change no matter what I do. Possibly an important clue I believe this problem began and has slowly gotten worse, after I forgot to kill the juice from the generator while tuning the generator using high RPM's. Blew out a VCR on that one. Please, any clues where to look next would be greatly appreciated. Camping World is 75$ an hour for labor to hunt stuff down. Similar set ups can be found on the Pace Arrow and Bounder models from the same year. Thanks.
I'll make an educated guess because I saw a so called "tech" blow an inhouse phone system by over-revving the standby generator while it was online. What was damaged in your converter was frequency sensitive. Generators will run at two governed speeds,1800 or 3600 RPM, depending on how they are wound. These speeds produce 60 cycle,( 60 cycles per second, X 60 seconds= 3,600 in the one case, 1800 X 2= 3,600 RPM in the other case of the double-wound design). Is the converter section of the unit still functional? That is, if you hook to shore power do the 12 volt appliances, (water pump, lights, frig control, etc), work? If so, I'd forget the converter's charging section, ( which most likely is kaput), and wire in a 1.25 amp full wave,(which equals around a 3 amp half wave charger), "float" type charger/maintainer. By shopping around I found the best one for $45. The "float" type are the ones that don't boil your batteries dry if left on for extended periods of time.If you want, email me and I'll give you some simple tests to run to check out your system. |
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