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I just bought a 1988 Holiday Rambler Alumalite AL 25Ft with the 460 Ford. Everything works on this thing except the fuel and temp gauges. Can someone point me in the right direction on what to look for? If all else fails is is t fairly easy to conect external gauges?
Sam is most likely correct. The voltage regulator would be my first choice. Sometimes when the voltage regulator is failing, the guages only work momentarily when the key is first turned on. I have replaced many of these regulators on different older Fords.
Unfortunately, in 1988 Ford was using an alternator with an internal voltage regulator (one wire instead of 3).
The gauges are run by a 7.5 amp fuse and I think you're spot on with how to start troubleshooting. You can tell the difference between the temp sender for the ECM versus the temp sender for the dash easily; The sender for the ECM has 2 wires and the one for the dash only has 1 wire. The sender grounds the gauge, so the test light will come on.
Under the dash of the superduty chassis it was pretty standard Ford truck, but it got hairy once you got past the firewall since every body manufacturer had their own standard for running the wires.
Phil, was Ford still using the instrument voltage regulator in '88? As I recall, the fuel and temp guages were the only ones conected to it. It is simple enough to check: Locate the temp sending unit, should be on or near the thermostat housing ( there will be 2 sending units, one for the guage and the other for the engine management computer. To check, disconnect the wire to either of them, turn the key to run(don't start), using a 12 volt test light ( available at any auto parts place) hook the clip on the test light lead to a good ground and stick the test light probe into the disconnected wire terminal, if you've got the right sender wire, the test light will blink on and off. If not, try the other sender lead, if you get no reaction from either one, then go to the chassis fuse panel and look for a small amp 5/7 fuse marked inst, and check it. If you need to replace the voltage reg, it is only necessary to pull the instrument panel cluster, not the dash. Purchase a replacement reg before you pull the cluster so you'll know what you're looking for and how it plugs into the backside of the cluster. Come back with what you find.
Thanx Phil. However I guess I should have stated this is the class A version. Do you think that will matter much? there are no fuses for the dash board just each individual accessory.
Thanx though,
Mike
First step, break out your owner's manual and check the fuses under the dash.
The best resource for troubleshooting is an EVTM for your chassis. Since your rig is a cut-away conversion, the E-series Van info will be identical for your chassis.
1988 Econoline van EVTM: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=FCT&mk=Ford+%26+Lincoln+Mercury&yr=1988&md=Econoline%2FClub+Wagon&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=&Sku=FPS1212888&itemtype=N&mscsid=TQF2S3SNR9HL9LCEAB9V37JQUMTB549C - $20 plus S&H in stock at Helminc.com
Sam, I misinterpreted what you said. It's not a voltage regulator, it's called a "Slosh Module" and the fuel gauge is the only one hooked up to it.
I'm pretty sure the Ford trucks were using the slosh module. What it does is add a delay in how soon the fuel gauge reacts to the sender in the fuel tank. It's easy to check if you can get to the fuel tank.
Since the gauge goes to "Full" when resistance goes up, all you have to do is disconnect the plug at the fuel tank and turn the key to "Run". If the gauge goes all the way to "Full" and beyond, the slosh module and the fuel gauge circuit are working correctly.
Class A? My Bad. I'm used to Class C being 25 feet, so I just assumed class C.
It will make a difference, since the class A is the Ford superduty chassis, not the Van chassis.
Wiring should be very similar between the superduty and other light trucks; There's a book of wiring diagrams at Helminc: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=FCT&mk=Ford+%26+Lincoln+Mercury&yr=1988&md=F%2DSeries+Trucks+%28100%2D550%29&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=FPS1213588O&itemtype=N&mscsid=TEU8W1DDBX4M8G2CH88N4R84GFUR0N29 - But it is currently out of stock. You can contact Helminc to see when it will be restocked. The EVTM for light trucks is here: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=FCT&mk=Ford+%26+Lincoln+Mercury&yr=1988&md=F%2DSeries+Trucks+%28100%2D550%29&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=FPS1212988&itemtype=N&mscsid=TEU8W1DDBX4M8G2CH88N4R84GFUR0N29 but there's no garauntee if the superduty is included. It's not much of a long shot to say it is, since all the light trucks are grouped in with the superduty for the wiring diagrams, but the could be some superduty-specific things that could be missing. You'd have to investigate it by contacting Helminc before buying it.
Phil, I was referring to the instrument panel voltage regulator, a small metallic object plugged into the instrument cluster printed circuit. This regulator operated similar to a turn signal flasher, turning the current on and off to the fuel and temp gauges circuits.
Sam......you can't imagine how many arguments the existance of that little regulator has started for me. Way back when,it was customary to put cluster gauges under the dash and forget the factory ones....just guess at the gas. But then came along transmissions that wouldn't go into overdrive unless they got a signal that the engine was at operating temperature and people were forced to go the extra bucks and fix it right. I'v been at this over 40 years ans still have the 20 year olds telling me how it's done. I'm sure you know.
Yes; I understood that by the time I made my second post. It isn't really a voltage regulator, it's a filtering device for the fuel gauge to keep the needle from bopping up and down when the fuel sloshes around in the fuel tank. Honest. It isn't attached to the temp gauge at all. It's a small device about an inch and a half square that usually plugs into the instrument cluster either directly above or below where the fuel gauge attaches to the printed circuit.
Sam, I know what you are referring to....I have always called it a voltage regulator also, and I'm not sure when and if Ford stopped using them. First time I encountered this was in 1965 on a Galaxie 500. Over the years I have replaced them on Ford's and International Harvester's. I couldn't say for sure that this the problem here, but all the newer ones I have replaced were inside the instrument cluster where you couldn't see them.
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